Budapest
Budapest is the capital and most populated city of Hungary. Many ask, why Budapest? The easy answer is why not? But in all seriousness, Budapest has had settlers since before 1AD with attractions dating back to Roman times. Originally 3 separate cities of Óbuda, Buda, and Pest; they combined in 1873 to become Budapest. One visit here, provides you the opportunity to walk amongst Roman ruins, witness the opulence of the Habsburg dynasty and the Austro-Hungarian Empire, see the devastation the Arrow Cross Party and Communist regimes of the 20th century brought, and the recovery and successes of the 21st century. This country and city has survived so much and has preserved their history to learn from.
History aside, Budapest also offers access to an important river, the Danube. The second longest river in Europe, the Danube runs through 9 different countries. Mentioned throughout history in many songs and widely traveled, the Danube is very present throughout the artistic world.
Table of Contents
Lodging / Transportation
For our stay in Budapest, we stayed in the party hostel, Vitae Hostel. But, this stay was different as we decided on a private room. This hostel boasts a party option every day of the week, but a relaxed atmosphere if you want a quiet night of rest. We were able to join a Ruin Bar Crawl one night and let me tell you, it was an absolute blast! The best part, it was free!
60% of the hostel’s space is common areas to be used for games, drinks, and making new friends. Cheap family style dinners, where you only pay for the cost of ingredients, is commonplace here.
It does have an age limit, as many party hostels do. So, before booking make sure you fall within the age range. Located in Pest, with plenty of food options and a tram stop nearby, we couldn’t ask for a nicer group of people to explore Budapest with.
For transportation, we relied on the public transportation that Budapest offered. Surprise, surprise right? Budapest Center of Transport or BKK offers a safe and extensive bus, tram, and subway system. There’s very few if any places in the city you can’t reach via BKK. We only can speak to their subway and bus system which was clean, timely, and safe.
Places to Eat / Local Cuisine
BITE bakery café
Just a 6 min walk from our hostel, BITE bakery was the perfect stop to get some grub after a night of partying. Breakfast is available all day; they offer pretzel sandwiches, bagels, sausage rolls, and baked goods. Fantastic coffee choices and fresh squeezed juices round out their tasty menu.
Pizza King Express
Just steps away from our hostel and open late, this place was perfect for a quick stop to fill our tummies. Quick order pizza, it’s exactly what you would expect. Not fantastic but definitely perfect for a meal on the go.
Legenda Dinner Cruise
ÔMy birthday fell during this trip and as a surprise, Jon booked a candlelit dinner cruise on the Danube! We loved it! It includes the cruise down the Danube (obviously), a welcome drink, live music, and a 4-course a la carte menu. Drinks are available for additional purchase. It really was a treat!
Ideally located just steps away from St. Stephen’s Basilica, this bistro is moderately priced. With live music every evening, we really enjoyed our visit here.
Hungarikum Bisztró
Eating at this restaurant was something we had been looking forward to our whole trip. It did not disappoint! For traditional Hungarian food, you can’t get any better! It’s VERY popular and reservations are HIGHLY recommended. Unless, you’re lucky, as a walk-in, don't expect to be sat without a long wait. Eating goulash here is unlike anything I’ve experienced. Goulash is now one of my favorite dishes, and you must try it! Jon ordered a loin of pork with paprika sauce and bacon sour cabbage dumplings, while I ordered stripes of pork loin with garlic and fried potatoes. Both extremely tasty! You’ll also receive a booklet with Hungarian recipes and info about the restaurant. We were also surprised with some traditional apricot pálinka to close out the meal! If you find yourself in Budapest, this is a MUST VISIT!
Korona Kávéház
Located in the castle district, this café was the perfect place to stop and warm up after walking around Buda Castle. It was here we tried Dobos Torta, a traditional Hungarian dessert. It's a sponge cake layered with chocolate buttercream and topped with caramel. It is a very touristy area, so be prepared for a wait but super tasty!
Explore Budapest
This city offers so many things to see and explore. Just walking around will reveal how much there actually is to do here. This short list provides just a glimpse at what one can do in 24 hours here.
This has been the seat of the rulers of Hungary since 1265. Although, the reconstructed building you see today is modeled after the Baroque Palace built between 1749 and 1769. The castle today houses 2 museums, the National Gallery, and National Library. You’ll find artifacts saved and restored throughout the history of Hungary here in the Castle as well as a visual representation of all this site has seen. You’ll find remnants of the medieval castle which once stood here, the Ottoman occupation in the caves and tunnels, and primarily the Habsburg dynasty presence with many rooms in all their glory. We regrettably did not purchase a tour of the castle but instead wandered around the Castle District. But a visit to their website will show a variety of tours available.
One of the most famous attractions in Budapest, this stalwart building lining the Danube River is a beautiful site. If you don’t know, a bastion is a portion of a fortification that projects out at an angle to provide defensive fire in all directions. It also provides one of the most spectacular views of Budapest and the Danube. This spot has been a defensive stronghold since the Middle Ages. Named after the guild of fisherman who lived under the walls and defended this portion of the city’s walls during wartime.
The current bastion was actually built in 1895-1902 in the Neo-Romanesque style of the early medieval ages (around 1000AD). You’ll see it’s much more decorative than other bastions you may have seen. That’s because it was built as a viewing platform to celebrate 1000 years of the Hungarian State.
There are 7 unique towers in the Fisherman’s bastion that have special meaning. Each tower is representative of the 7 Magyar chieftains that settled with their tribes in 895 in Hungary. You’ll find many statues celebrating notable figures throughout Medieval Hungary.
Our visit was topped off with my favorite, SNOW! My best birthdays are always accompanied by my fluffy friend. We even were able to catch it on camera.
This beautiful church was originally the site of a church built in the early 11th century but sadly was razed during the Mongol occupation of Hungary. This church was built in the late 14th century, restored in the 19th century, and provides a beautiful representation of the elaborate Gothic style of architecture. It also is the site of historical significance as 2 Hungarian Kings were crowned here.
Completed in 1905, this church is located in Downtown Budapest and is the largest church in the city. With intricate ornamentation and large windows allowing light to dapple the church’s interiors, it provides the perfect setting for state funerals.
Ruin Bars
What’s a ruin bar, you ask? Well, in the early 2000s some innovative entrepreneurs bought abandoned buildings and instead of demolishing or renovating, they took the dilapidated buildings and worked within the ruin/ramshackle aesthetic. Primarily centered in the Jewish quarter, ruin bars are now an integral component to Budapest’s nightlife.
This hostel is one of the 5 famous party hostels of Europe. They have their own bar, but even better a garden courtyard open for activities with other like minded individuals from around the world.
This complex is THE place exemplifying the ruin bar culture perfectly in one location. Two iconic ruin bars Instant and Fogasház combined to form one HUGE kingdom. They have 7 different dance floors to choose from and open from 6pm-6am, you have your choice of different music styles and atmosphere to make for one incredible night out!
This bar is in the American style and has 3 dance floors, 5 bars, a games room, billiards room and Hungary’s largest garden space. You’ll definitely find something to occupy your time here, Open from 5pm-5am it’s definitely worth a visit.
Pál-völgyi Caving
Did you know that underneath the sprawling city of Budapest, there is a 32km/20mi long labyrinth of caves? I sure didn’t! Jon stumbled on a cave diving experience at our hostel which we really wanted to do. But sadly, to dive the Molnar Janos Cave you must have your cave diving certification. As we don’t have this certification, we decided to book an adventure caving experience in the Pál-völgyi Cave or Cave of Paul Valley.
The Pál-völgyi cave system is the largest in Hungary and stays at a consistent 10°C/50°F. Tours run almost every hour and all caving equipment is provided. The Adventure caving experience is approximately 2.5-3 hours and requires climbing on walls and through narrow passages. Located in the 2nd district, it’s about 45min away by bus, or 15 min away by taxi. There’s also a cave walk tour for those less adventurous, that’ll take you through 2 caves down a paved path. The last tour they offer is a geological tour that lasts 45 min for a deeper insight into hydrothermal caves.
We really enjoyed this guided tour. You can see some beautiful limestone stalactites and stalagmites, and twinkling calcium crystals in this multi-level cave. Even though I was slightly embarrassed as the only person in child overalls, I would still recommend this tour! 😛
Széchenyi Thermal Bath
If you don’t know, the first settlement in Budapest was by the Celts as early as 1 AD. The Romans took over said settlement and grew to be Aquincum. Part of the reason the Romans settled here was due to the thermal springs in the area. During the Turkish occupation (1526-1686), they constructed more medicinal and thermal baths. Budapest gained a reputation as the “city of baths” in the early 20th century.
Széchenyi Thermal Bath, is the only “medicinal” thermal bath on the Pest side. Built in 1913 in the Neo-Baroque style, this is the largest medicinal bath in Europe. It’s supplied by 2 thermal springs that are 74°C/165°F and 77°C/171°F.
Today, Széchenyi Thermal Bath offers a variety of services. Their medical services which include bathing in medicinal baths, medical massage, mud treatment, amongst others is only available with a prescription. Thalassotherapy is available for purchase, as well as massage services. They even offer a soak in their beer spa. Their entry tickets gain you access to their outdoor pools, indoor pools, and variety of saunas and steam rooms.
Something unique to Széchenyi Thermal Baths, is their world famous bath parties or Sparties. Available every Saturday from February to December, Sparty is a dance party which takes place in the thermal baths. Not only will you enjoy the thermal baths, but a light and laser show, excellent electronic music and live entertainment. Twice a year in August and December, Cinetrip pool parties are even more outrageous with their own fireworks show! After a long day on our feet, the Sparty was exactly what we needed. We would HIGHLY recommend a Sparty, and even if you don’t necessarily want to party, a visit to the Széchenyi Thermal Bath is an absolute MUST while in Budapest!
House of Terror
This museum is quite the different experience. The House of Terror, while extremely sobering is important. But, to understand the not so long ago history of the city/country in which you’re visiting, I believe it is an essential one. Located at 60 Andrássy út, it highlights 2 of the most horrifying periods of the 20th century. The building was once the headquarters of both the Arrow Cross Party and ÁVH. It is also a memorial to the people who were detained, interrogated, tortured, and/or killed in the building.
Arrow Cross Party
A far-right ultranationalist movement that started as the Party of National Will in 1935 and after being outlawed in 1937 was reconstituted the Arrow Cross Party in 1939. Led by Ferenc Szálasi, the Arrow Cross Party influence can be traced back to 1919, the Hungarian Soviet Republic and Red Terror with some Communist leaders being of Jewish descent. Gaining support between the 2 World Wars, through traditional stereotypes and prejudices, they came to power OFFICIALLY in 1944. Approximately 63,000 Jews had been deported or killed but the majority happened after Nazi occupation of Hungary in 1944. After the occupation, sadly, Hungarian Jews number decreased exponentially due to deportation to concentration camps and death squads from 825,000 to 260,000.But something important to note is while the worst of humanity took place during this time, goodness still prevails. Tens of thousands of Jews were saved throughout the Holucoust, in thanks to many Hungarians.
Following the defeat of Nazi Germany in 1945, Hungary elected a new Prime Minister, but eventually became a satellite state of the Soviet Union and remained under Communist rule until 1989. You’ll find an interesting exhibit entitled “Changing Clothes” where you can witness the many of the Arrow Cross Party change their uniform into the ÁVH uniform. Now, they can continue doing their job which was to arrest, torture, and murder.
ÁVH
The ÁVH or Államvédelmi Hatóság was the secret police in Hungary from 1945-1956 when the People’s Republic of Hungary was in power. Essentially, they were the KGB of Hungary and until 1953 was well known for their brutality. Their main goal was to seek out and persecute political prisoners. Starting with a secret arrest, torture followed lasting anywhere from 3 to 18 months. After the “confession” was obtained a sentencing would take place and the prisoner was sent to a concentration camp, where the primary goal was death by overworking or maltreatment. Torture was also a common occurrence at the concentration camps. From 1948-1956 approximately 350,000 souls were imprisoned or executed and 600,000 Hungarians sent to ‘gulags’ where 200,000 died.
In my opinion, while both regimes were absolutely appalling, part of the horror of the Communist rule was the lack of trust. During the Nazi occupation, and puppet Arrow Cross regime, one had a unified enemy to rally against. But, ÁVH sowed distrust among the populace, even as intimate as families. You never knew who you could and more importantly, could NOT trust. People would just disappear with no trace
1956 saw a Revolution following the firing of peaceful demonstrators. Lasting almost 3 weeks, 229 revolutionaries were killed and thousands imprisoned. As many as 200,000 Hungarians fled the country as refugees.
With the revolution sufficiently squelched, Communist Hungary saw a change. János Kádár now headed up the Hungarian Socialist Workers’ Party. In 1963, most political prisoners had been released and a new policy was enacted where you were no longer required to profess loyalty to the party as long as you agreed to live with a socialist regime quietly. After the recession in the 1980s, support waned for the Communist regime. After a peaceful transition of power, free elections were held in 1990. Democracy found a new home in Hungary.
The House of Terror, while not an enjoyable visit, is an extremely important one. Highlighting the depths to which humanity can fall when scared, is key in not repeating history. But possibly more crucial is remembering those that gave the ultimate sacrifice, fighting against truly revolting enemies.
Cat Café Budapest
As a fan of all of our furry friends, a visit to the cat café was an absolute must while in Budapest.
Found in downtown Budapest and just a 7 minute walk from St. Stephen’s Basilica, this is the perfect place to decompress surrounded by some VERY CUTE kitties.
Since 2013, visitors can spend time with the sweet residents of the cat café while enjoying a beverage or something else from their menu. They offer a variety of hot drinks (obviously), as well as soft drinks or even alcoholic beverages. You can even order something to nibble on if you’re hungry with cakes and hot sandwiches to choose from.
While a reservation is not required, we highly recommend making one. Otherwise, you’ll find yourself waiting at the door until a space becomes available. The best part? When we visited there was no admission fee or time limit!
Budapest is a city that surprised but delighted us. It fostered our love of travel and illustrated how much we have to learn about the world. This enchanting city with all of its history should be on everyone’s list to visit.
Whew! That was a marathon! I hope we did these countries some justice! The amount of history in these cities is staggering and at times very overwhelming. In retrospect, we wish we had more time in each city and country as our time here has only offered a glimpse into each culture. While all 3 cities were at one time under the same empire, all 3 have emerged with distinct, unique countries with their own cultures. I can say with confidence, we would be all too happy to visit these countries again to learn more and explore their long and complicated past. Not to mention spend more time in their enchanting Christmas markets!!
