The Culebra - PR travel guide
About Culebra, PR
Looking for gorgeous white sand beaches and a slower pace of life? Culebra is just what you’re looking for! Made up of more than the main island, Culebra includes 23 smaller cays off its coastal waters. Only 20 miles off of mainland Puerto Rico, Culebra or “snake island” does not have any flashy hotels or busy tourist attractions. It’s here, you’ll find the perfect place disconnect and recharge with the variety of beaches and plentiful marine life surrounding this island.
After leaving the USVI, we started making our way back West. Talk about some beautiful downwind sailing! After leaving Saba Island (USVI), we sailed the approximate 16nm into Ensenada Honda in Culebra. The only hiccup we encountered was when we were under sail, another catamaran (looked like a charter), got pretty close to us while they were motoring. Normally, not an issue but we were trolling a fishing line which got caught in their propeller. They didn’t stop so we were left with only one option of cutting our line and saying goodbye to our most successful lure.
After checking into Puerto Rico, we explored the island and after a few days sailed the 3nm to Culebrita. We absolutely LOVED this island.
Table of Contents
For Cruisers
Land Access/Dinghy Docks
Land access is relatively easy from Ensenada Bay. Dewey Public Dock is found in the Southwest corner of the bay. This public dock is in very good condition but it is quite high, so expect to do a bit of climbing up if your dinghy is small like ours! You can also dock at “Colmado y Carnicera Milka” (Grocery store) as well as “The Dinghy Dock” (Restaurant).
Provisioning (Grocery Stores)
Superette Mayra’s
This grocery store is ideally located at just 300ft/90m away from the dinghy dock! As a person who reads reviews, I was slightly nervous coming here due to some poor reviews mentioning a rude woman. We encountered no issues at all during our visits here. They did require a mask upon entry and limited the amount of people in the store, at least when we visited. But they had a good selection and their location can’t be beat!
Colmado y Carnicera Milka
We tried to visit this grocer but there was quite a long line to enter the store. We were on a time constraint, so sadly we weren’t able to patronize this store. Buuuuuuuuut, I figured it was worth mentioning because it actually has a dinghy dock in the back! Talk about convenience!
Colmado Costa del Sol
The furthest grocer from the dinghy dock (about 1mi) but definitely carried a good selection. We found the employees here more friendly but as with every grocer, they still required masks so make sure to bring some!
*Just remember, it is an island with a smaller population. It doesn’t take much effort to be respectful and follow their protocols*
Anchoring
Ensenada Honda provides a plethora of anchoring opportunities. We decided to anchor lee of Cayo Pirata as the prevailing winds are from the East. Holding is decent with a packed sand and sea grass bottom. At approximately 13 ft deep, our trusty Rocna anchor held with no issues.
The only other anchorage we used while on the island of Culebra was Bahia de Almodovar but known to the locals as Las Pelas. This VERY popular anchorage also has mooring balls available for use for free. You’ll find protection from waves and swell but not from wind. During low tide, you’ll find a sand bar exposed and plenty of people exploring this transient land. Make sure to be careful when entering this anchorage as there are submerged reefs and shoals.
Transportation
It is a relatively small island, but it’s definitely big enough to need a vehicle to get around. Keep in mind, some areas of the island are quite hilly. We attempted to visit Zoni Beach and came across a warning stating many golf carts cannot make the steep hill leading to the beach. We KNEW our engine would not get us back up the hill so sadly we turned around. Bummer! If your heart is set on a visit to this secluded beach, a car rental is probably best.
We recommened renting a Jeep/Golf Cart in Culebra
During our short visit here, we decided to rent a golf cart for 24 hours. Carlos Jeep Rental offers Ford F-150s, Jeep Wranglers (2 and 4 door), and golf carts for rental. Their main office is on Culebra, across the street from the airport (CPX). They also have 2 other offices on the mainland in Ceiba and San Juan. At approximately $50/a day for a golf cart rental you can’t go wrong!
The same as every rental service, you rent the vehicle with a full tank of gas and it’s expected to return with a full tank. Unfortunately, when we went to refill the tank, all of the gas stations were completely out! Welcome to island life! Carlos Jeep Rental offers 3 options for gas; return the tank full, pay premium gas prices if returned less than full, or prepay for fuel when renting at a lower than retail price. We didn’t prepay, so we ended up paying for gas on the return. But, because availability of gas is not always guaranteed, we would recommend prepaying!
Best places to eat in St. Culebra
We didn’t spend a lot of time eating out on Culebra, but everywhere we did eat, was quite tasty!
Dinghy Dock Restaurant
This restaurant has changed hands somewhat recently but is a great place to stop for some grub. Dinghy Dock is located, you guessed it, right on the water. Accessible via land or water, you can tie your dinghy up right there! With happy hour options and excellent service, we highly recommend a visit here! Even if it’s just for drinks!
Kiosko #6
Located adjacent to Flamenco Beach Parking, you’ll find 2 kiosks or food trucks that sell food for purchase. We chose Kiosko #6 because they ALSO sold alcohol! They carry pina coladas, beer and Gasolina which is a ready to drink cocktail in a aluminum pouch (just like Capri SUN!) This food truck has burgers, pinchos, empanadillas, and some sides. Need to rehydrate? They also have plenty of non-alcoholic options.
We were pretty hungry, so we decided on burgers and fries as well as some empanadillos. They definitely hit the spot!
Blac Flamingo Coffee
As always, the search for excellent coffee never ends. We stumbled upon Blac Flamingo coffee which specializes in artisan coffee and small plates. This coffee shop is a haven for creativity. Art is present here in multiple formats including everything from their craft coffee to their walls that patrons have free range to doodle on.
The coffee beans come from the mountains of mainland Puerto Rico and they offer everything from traditional cappuccinos to fresh squeezed juices. With 3 different pour over options and non coffee choices, there’s something for everyone! This coffee shop will not disappoint! We’re just sad we were only able to visit once!
Beaches & Activities in Culebra, PR.
Flamenco Beach
One of the biggest attractions of Culebra and definitely the most famous is Flamenco Beach. Continually ranked as one of the best beaches in the world, this mile long stretch of powdery white sand is a MUST SEE. Gaining its name from the nearby lagoon which attracts flamingos in the winter, the differing shades of blue and crystal clear waters of this horseshoe shaped bay is something out of a tourist magazine. Complemented by the rolling green hills as a backdrop is definitely hard to beat.
Another distinctive quality of Flamenco beach are its rusting tanks. Flamenco beach was used by the US Navy as a weapons testing ground for over 30 years. After their departure in 1975, the old M4 Sherman Tanks were left behind. The salt water and wind degrade what once was while both local and tourist artists have added colorful graffiti, turning what once was a blight on the landscape into an iconic feature. One of the tanks even has a Geocache on it, so get to searching!
Flamenco Beach is the most built up of the beaches on Culebra and has a small fee for entrance and parking. You’ll find lifeguards, kiosks, toilets, outdoor showers, beach equipment rental, lockers and picnic tables available for use. You can even camp at Flamingo Beach for $30 per tent per night!
Tamarindo Beach
On the West coast of Culebra sits the unassuming Tamarindo Beach. But, don’t be fooled as the real allure of this beach lies below the surface. Protected by the Canal de Luis Peña Nature Reserve the waters off Tamarindo beach are calm and filled with marine life. It provides the perfect place for snorkeling, kayaking and SUPing.
We came to this beach specifically to snorkel and explore the reefs. Tamarindo Beach did not let us down! We saw turtles, a variety of reef fish, and even a nurse shark! It was awesome! But always remember to keep a safe distance from sea life. This is their home, we’re just visiting.
There’s also a good amount of shaded spots to sit and enjoy the view of Cayo Luis Peña. But even though this beach has calm waters, always make sure to apply safe swimming practices. The water starts rocky and progresses to coral followed by a drop off of 4-6ft deep. With no lifeguards on site, you are swimming at your own risk.
Culebrita (Remote Island off the coast)
***We have a whole blogpost coming next week!***
Isla Culebrita is an uninhabited island 1.3nm off the East coast of Culebra. The island is filled with tide pools, abandoned light house, and so much wildlife! Without a private vessel, the only way to get to this national wildlife refuge is by water taxi. We absolutely loved our visit to this idyllic island. So much so that we stayed almost a full week! If you have the opportunity to visit this fantastic island, take advantage! You won’t regret it!
Conclusion
So if you’re looking for the ideal location to unplug, Culebra is the place for you. With its pristine beaches, incredible marine life, and simple island living, Culebra will enchant you. You’ll find yourself coming back to this paradise time and time again.
