Northern
Michigan
Michigan and its most famous city Detroit, have many nicknames; the Great Lakes State, Motor City, Motown. Detroit has so many things to see, it’s worthy of its own posting. So I’ll leave that alone for now.
Did you know you can stand anywhere in Michigan and be within 85mi of a Great Lake? The only state that has more shoreline than Michigan is Alaska. Due to its strategic location, Michigan borders have changed considerably over time marked by the French and Indian War, American Revolutionary War and the War of 1812.
Michigan also offers some gorgeous natural beauty with plethora of state parks and obviously its proximity to the Great Lakes. Granted as fantastic as the Great Lakes are, that’s not all we have. We have some wonderful sand dunes and even have 2 national forests!
Michigan is the only state that consists of 2 peninsulas. The lower and upper peninsulas, while the same state, have very different personalities. This post will focus on the lower peninsula and more specifically the northern portion of the lower peninsula. Now I can go on and on about our home state, but I’ll try to restrain myself. I’ll follow my previous format and highlight some of the best things to do while visiting Northern Michigan.
Table of Contents
Lodging
Harbor Springs
Our first AirBnb was in Harbor Springs and was titled “The Nest”. It had a beautiful view of Lake Michigan through a window that actually looked like a porthole! We spent a little more than we usually do but it was definitely worth it! Here is where we would link the rental but it seems like it’s no longer available on AirBnb.
Maple City
The other AirBnb we stayed at is located in Maple City. This highly sought after rental is actually a yurt and it’s located on Spruce Hill Farm! Yurts are traditional dwellings of the nomadic people of Central Asia and have recently become more popular. Now, they’re made with higher tech materials. Spruce Hill Farm is a working goat milk and duck farm. It also has MILES of private trials for use and even offered snowshoes to use! Not only that, they even left some homemade goat cheese and soap in the yurt for us! FYI there is NO internet in the yurt. We would absolutely recommend!
Places to Eat
Small Batch at the Cupola
Located in Harbor Springs this restaurant is a must see! They offer artisan meals made from scratch, as well as homemade baked goods that are as good as they look!
Tom’s Mom’s Cookies
Also located in Harbor Springs, this award winning shop sells delicious homemade cookies. If you love sweets or are looking for some dessert, you have to stop here and grab a tasty treat!
Audie’s Restaurant
Found in Mackinaw City, this family restaurant offers a variety of options. They have 4 separate options for dining. The family room is exactly what you would imagine it to be, family dining. The Chippewa Room offers casual fine dining and seasonal specialities. The welcome lounge resembles a rustic lodge where you can relax with a cocktail. There’s also a banquet room to rent for large parties.
Bridge Street Tap Room
Located in Charlevoix, we stopped here for a quick bite en route to our 2nd AirBnb. Overlooking Round Lake, Bridge Street Tap Room has 32 taps of Michigan craft beer and ciders. They also offer super tasty small plates, entrees, amongst many more options. Definitely worth a stop!
Trattoria Stella
You can find this Italian eatery in the Village at Grand Traverse Commons. Very romantic and surrounded by history, this restaurant offers delectable farm to table options with a curated wine list. The executive chef and his team are well versed in pairing their expansive wine list with their culinary pursuits. Must stop for our wine lovers out there.
Harbor Springs
Harbor Springs is a small town in northern Michigan. It sits on Little Traverse Bay which is a portion of Lake Michigan. This beautiful town has a lot to offer! Not only are there fantastic views of Lake Michigan, but their downtown is filled with many little gems.
Tunnel of Trees / M-119
One of the joys of Michigan is that just a few hours away, you can escape the busy day to day of life and be surrounded by nature. One of the most picturesque drives actually starts in Harbor Springs. The“Tunnel of Trees” or M-119 is a 20 mile drive north from Harbor Springs to Cross Village. This drive is hard to beat, with Lake Michigan Views on one side and driving through a hardwood and evergreen forest. This 2 lane byway is VERY popular so unless you visit on a weekday expect traffic. If you continue north there are some very scenic beaches to pull off at.
Pond Hill Farm
Harbor Springs also houses Pond Hill Farm which is so much more than a farm! Not only will you find fresh produce (available seasonally) but they also have miles of trails to explore via snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, or just your own two feet! After working up an appetite, you can make your way inside as they have a cafe on the premises. Something to wash down all that yummy food? You bet! They also have a brewery and winery here! But a visit to a farm is not complete without a visit to their livestock barn and trip down their sledding hill! (available seasonally)
Headlands International Dark Sky Park
For those interested in astronomy, Headlands International Dark Sky Park is a must see. What’s a Dark Sky Park, you ask? Well let me tell you! Dark Sky Parks are a designation by the International Dark Sky Association (IDA) after application of course. There are 5 designations for Dark Sky Places; communities, parks, reserves, sanctuaries, and urban night sky places. Similar to what national parks have achieved, the IDA’s main goal is to protect our view of the gorgeous night sky from further light pollution.
Headlands International Dark Sky Park is located just 10 minutes outside of Mackinaw City via car. It’s encouraged to use red filtered light to decrease the light pollution present. In addition to the beautiful sky view, it’s also home to many vulnerable plants and you can even catch a glimpse of some animals local to our state of Michigan.
Visit Lighthouses
Michigan deserves a new nickname, “the Lighthouse State”. The reason being that Michigan has the most lighthouses of every state. Boasting 129 active lighthouses currently, and according to one lighthouse historian as many as 247 lighthouses, you can understand this new nickname. I’ll touch on lighthouses in many posts as there are waaaay too many to see in one trip alone.
Lighthouses have throughout history intrigued so many, myself included. Lighthouses, first and foremost, are navigational aids for mariners. They mark coastlines and hazards to those at sea as well as safe harbor. Our own Statue of Liberty was originally used as a lighthouse from 1886-1901. The first known lighthouse “Pharos of Alexandria”, one of the 7 wonders of the ancient world, was built in approximately 280 BCE. So you can say lighthouses have been around and of interest for quite some time. They’ve represented safe harbor, strength and guidance for many. A stalwart friend to sailors enduring rough seas and terrible storms, always guiding their way to safety.
Petoskey Pierhead Lighthouse
Petoskey Pierhead Lighthouse, located in, you guessed it, Petoskey! The breakwater’s construction started in 1896 to help protect the landing pier and the summer visitors to Petoskey disembarking from lake steamers. A lamphouse signaled ships from the breakwater in 1899. In 1912, work started on the original lighthouse.Tragedy struck that same year when the only keeper of the light, Capt. Will Kurkett committed suicide by revolver after returning home from a hospital stay for heart disease. He’s said to have been mentally unbalanced at the time due to his illness as well as additional life troubles. His wife was interred at Northern Michigan Asylum in Traverse City for approximately a year (more on this location later). The original lighthouse, finished in 1913, was shaped as an inverted funnel and only 5 of these existed on Lake Michigan. Sadly, it washed away in a bitter storm in 1924. Temporary repairs were made and in 1930 concrete was laid on the breakwater with a cylindrical tower constructed that housed the current pierhead light.
It was quite the hazardous trek out to the pierhead as the breakwater was covered in ice and snow. So we put on our YakTrax and stepped carefully. I’m sure you’ve seen some breathtaking photos of ice formations on lighthouses. The physical representation of the power of our Lake Michigan is evidenced by these ice formations. We tried to capture the evidence of waves pounding against the lighthouse this season and how the water wraps around our reliable companion.
Grand Traverse Lighthouse
Grand Traverse Lighthouse is the second lighthouse of this trip. Found at the tip of Leelanau peninsula, in Leelanau State Park; the Grand Traverse Lighthouse after years of restoration is now a museum.
This lighthouse has seen lots of renovation since its original construction in 1852. It was originally placed at Cat Head Point, but due to its low elevation and poor construction it was demolished with a new lighthouse erected on a new point in 1858. A fog signal and extensions were added as well as additional buildings throughout the years of use.
We arrived at this lighthouse at night, so unfortunately we were unable to visit the museum. But walking around the grounds transported us to a different time. Imagining a time, holding the important job as a lighthouse keeper and guiding ships into the Grand Traverse Bay at night.
Point Betsie Lighthouse
Point Betsie Lighthouse is located in Frankfort and marks the southern approach of the Manitou Passage. Established in 1859, this lighthouse that sits on a sand dune, was the last manned lighthouse on Lake Michigan. It was finally automated in 1953.
One of the earliest life saving stations, including a boathouse, was established here in 1876. Lifesaving stations were overseen by the US Lifesaving service (one of the 2 services that became the US Coast Guard in 1915). Their goal was to rescue and save the lives of shipwrecked mariners and passengers. The life saving station was decommissioned in 1937.
As the lighthouse was built on a sand dune, reinforcement of the lighthouse was required multiple times throughout its lifetime. In addition, a 240ft/73.1m revetment made up of 2 rows of timber driven 10 ft down and topped with stone filled wooden cribs was added in 1890 to slow erosion from Lake Michigan. Materials were recycled as well. After the boathouse collapsed in 1940, the sheet pilings were used to construct a protective wall to help with erosion.
We visited this lighthouse, again, after sunset. The lighthouse is now a museum that offers tours daily (seasonally). You can also stay in the keeper’s quarters which are available to rent weekly and daily! This is also the first time I saw pancake ice. Pancake ice is typically seen with seawater, but can happen in freshwater. They form when the air is at or below freezing temperatures but the water is still above freezing.
Explore Fishtown
Historic Fishtown is located on the Leelanau peninsula in the town of Leland. What was once a wooding station from the 19th century, reinvented itself as a commercial fishing town and is now a preserved portion of our history. Fishtown is made up of weathered fishing shanties and smokehouses that were once occupied by families who made their living off the water. The shanties are now made up of shops selling everything from smoked fish, jewelry, clothing/accessories, and food. A visit to this remarkable location transports you to a, in many ways, simpler time.
As with all invasive species, sea lampreys destroyed the local fish population in the 20th century. This resulted in the Fishtown shifting gears so to speak and delving more into the chartering industry. Now, Fishtown has been maintained by the Fishtown Preservation Society to be a living reminder of days gone by. The goal is to maintain a connection to our regional past and to remain accessible to the public.
Sadly, as we visited off season Fishtown was not open. But, we were able to walk the grounds and witness the magic of this snow-covered town under the night sky, and in the morning sun.
Visit Grand Traverse Commons
The Northern Michigan Asylum is now the Village at Grand Traverse Commons. This building has been renovated to its former splendor. Shops, restaurants, and even apartments now occupy this space. They even offer historic tours, so you can learn more about this storied space.
Traverse City State Hospital or Northern Michigan Asylum opened its doors in 1885 with 43 patients. This hospital was built according to the Kirkbride Plan which was pioneered by (you guessed it) Thomas Story Kirkbride. What’s the Kirkbride Plan you ask? Well, Dr. Kirkbride pioneered the treatment of mental health using the patient’s surroundings. This architecture style focuses on natural light and air circulation. All of these hospitals were built in the “bat wing” floor plan with 8 staggered wings.
The first superintendent was Dr. James Decker Munson. He built on the therapeutic environment by leaning heavily on the philosophy that “beauty is therapy” by planting flowers (from the asylum’s greenhouses) and trees throughout the grounds and treating the patient’s with kindness and respect. Restraints were forbidden in the Northern Michigan Asylum. The second groundbreaking philosophy Dr. Munson introduced was “work is therapy”. With the hospital being completely self-sufficient, there were plenty of jobs to be had. The hospital closed its doors in 1989 with deinstitutionalization.
We could go on and on about places to go and things to do in Michigan. Our home state offers so many different things to do. Between the lakes, forests, snow, wineries and breweries; there are activities that interest everyone. There will be more Michigan posts in the future so stay tuned!
4 Responses
Grand Traverse Lighthouse also has a really nice trail system for hiking, snowshoeing, or cross country skiing.
Wow 🤩 great pictures at night time! I can imagine how busy it can get in the summertime, just one of many places to visit in MI, love the shanties on the water, hope to see Fishtown next year….
Great post! If you ever visit Fishtown during their main season, the Village Cheese Shanty has the best sandwiches I’ve ever had. And they’re huge, so easy to share. My spouse and I snagged one before going backpacking on North Manitou for a few days.
This is so informative!! Love your pictures and your adventures! Wants me to visit these places of Michigan too !