Vienna
Vienna or Wien in German is the capital of Austria, was the capital of the Holy Roman Empire and residence of the Habsburg dynasty. Talk about a city with a lot going on! Evidence has shown that this space has been settled since 500BC. Nicknamed the ‘City of Music’ and well known as the birthplace of classical music, many important musicians, such as Mozart and Beethoven, called Vienna home. Widely considered one of the most beautiful cities in the world, with a plethora of palaces, museums and imperial buildings scattered throughout the city, it’s easy to see why!. It’s also well known as one of the best places to live. Vienna consistently tops the lists worldwide for livability.
Table of Contents
Lodging / Transportation
We wanted to alternate between AirBnbs and hostels, so while in Vienna we chose an AirBnb. Located in the hip 7th district, Neubau is known for its art galleries and museums. We loved our stay here! Neubau is also the home to trendy coffee shops and restaurants and small artsy boutiques.
Our Airbnb was on a lively street but the apartment was quiet and comfortable! Just 5 min away from museumsquartier and 5 minutes away from a Subway station, we couldn’t ask for a better location!
Transportation in Vienna is definitely enviable. Not only is it clean, fast, and reliable but it’s also cheap! Wiener Linien encompasses almost all public transportation in Vienna. A ticket will gain you access to ANY public transport in the city. Made up of the U-Bahn (subway), Schnellbahn or S-Bahn (local train), Straßenbahn (tram) and Autobus (bus), you’ll have plenty to choose from.
The most interesting thing about Wiener Linien is that it works on the honor system! Yes, you read that right! With no ticket barriers or permanent ticket checks, you walk on and off unencumbered! So why buy a ticket at all? Well, other than the obvious moral conundrum, there is the occasional ticket check by conductor or even undercover agent. There’s even tourism discounts you can add-on to your order if you want!
We ended up choosing the 72 hour ticket option which affords you all you can ride from validation for 72 hours. They have so many ticket options you can easily find one to suit your needs.
Places to Eat / Local Cuisine
The majority of our meals were eaten on the go because the Christmas markets have officially opened! But, just because the food was fast does NOT mean the quality wasn’t there. We did visit a couple restaurants and have them detailed below.
When traveling we try to eat local foods and Vienna has some great options to choose from! If you find yourself in Vienna you absolutely must try Wiener Schnitzel, Tafelspitz, Wiener Würstel, and Apfelstrudel.
Wiener Schnitzel tops the list of must try foods in Vienna. Traditionally made with veal, pounded flat and typically served with lemon. Now, it’s made with pork, chicken and even turkey.
Tafelzpitz is a national dish of whole beef tailbone boiled in broth. It’s typically served with applesauce, horseradish and potatoes.
Wiener Würstel is a simple but well known choice and for good reason. A sausage made of pork and beef and served with a sharp mustard.
Apfelstrudel is another internationally known dish. The Habsburg empire is to thank for spreading the lovely delicacy throughout the world. Made with a thin, crispy dough and filled with apples, sugar, raisins, rum, cinnamon, and clove.
Schnitzelwirt
Just a few blocks away from our AirBnb, this was the perfect introduction to Viennese food! This highly recommended restaurant has been favored by Viennese and tourists alike! They offer 15 different types of Schnitzel. It was here we tried the Berner Würstel which is a sausage stuffed with cheese and wrapped in bacon, yum!
Figlmüller at Wollzeile
This is THE PLACE to be for authentic Wiener Schnitzel. Opened in 1905, this small, unassuming restaurant has been catapulted to international fame. The Wollzeile is the original location and where we ate but they also have a sister location at Bäckerstraße. The newer location, or bäckerstraße, offers a bigger menu and may be easier to get into. Although reservations are recommended at both! Another important thing to note is Wollzeile does not offer beer but Bäckerstraße does. It was here that we tried the Wiener Schnitzel and Tafelspitz. Let me say, they definitely lived up to their fame!
Palace and Gardens of Schönbrunn
A UNESCO world heritage site, the Palace and Gardens of Schönbrunn was the residence of the Habsburg empire from the 18th century to 1918. One of the best representations of Rococo architectural design still standing today. In addition, the Tiergarten Schönbrunn is the OLDEST zoo in the world operating since 1752.
In retrospect, we wish we had more time in this fantastic attraction. Our time to visit the palace was scheduled for 1100. Don’t make the same mistake we made, and check the hours of operation in the attractions you wish to visit.
The palace offers 2 tours, the imperial and the grand tour. You can only see the palace with the purchase of a tour and you must reserve a time to visit. The Imperial tour is not guided but offers a free audio guide and printed materials. The better choice for those with limited time, this tour focuses on the suites of Emperor Franz Josef and his infamous wife Sisi who lived there during the 19th century. The Grand tour focuses on the suites of Emperor Francis I and Maria Theresa who ruled over the Habsburg dominions from 1740 until her death in 1780. For an upcharge you can take a guided tour with the grand tour. An audio guide and printed materials are available for free also.
The gardens of Schönbrunn are free to enter everyday. The specialty exhibits of the orangery garden, privy garden, and maze do require purchase to attend. We were able to walk around the gardens but as it was winter; there wasn’t much to see.
The Tiergarten Schönbrunn, we were very excited to see. Built in 1752 by Emperor Franz I, it’s actually the OLDEST zoo in the world. Not only that, it was voted the best zoo in Europe six times, most recently in 2021. They hold conservation and protection of animals in the highest regard. Making up 17 hectares, they host 700 species, some of which are highly endangered, and have had many breeding successes.
Sadly, due to lack of planning on our part, we were only able to spend 2.5 hours in the zoo as they closed at 4:30PM. We like to take our time in attractions, making sure to absorb as much as we can while there. In a perfect world we would visit the zoo one day and the palace another. But, seeing as we only had so much time in Vienna, we tried to make the most of it.
We spent most of our time in the zoo at the Rainforest house. Not only was there so much to see but it was also warm! At 19°F/-7°C we were anxious to get out of the cold.
We spent most of our time in the zoo at the Rainforest house. Not only was there so much to see but it was also warm! At 19°F/-7°C we were anxious to get out of the cold.
We’ll have to plan a repeat visit as there is so much more at Tiergarten Schönbrunn to explore. As you’ve seen they have a Rainforest House featuring pygmy otters (our favorite), a wide variety of birds, turtles, bats and flying foxes! The zoo also has a giraffe park, elephant park, monkey house, koala house, rhino park, south american park, the polarium, and so much more!
Another interesting feature is the Tirolerhof. A traditional farmhouse, dating from 1722, was disassembled and reassembled in the zoo. It’s here that you can see endangered breeds of farm animals!
Christmas Markets
European Christmas markets or Christkindlmarkt are probably some of the most magical attractions of the pre-Christmas season worldwide. Vienna was one of the earliest cities to host what was called a December market or “Krippenmarkt”. In 1296, the citizens of Vienna were allowed to hold a street market.
Part of the main draw of Christmas markets is the wonderful food you can smell walking through town. Potato pancakes (kartoffelpuffer), bread with hot melted cheese on top (raclette), pasta with ham (schinkenfleckerl) are found in stalls calling you with their intoxicating scent. Not in the mood for savory? You’ll also find waffles with sweet toppings (waffeln), decorated gingerbread-like cookies (lebkuchen), and my favorite roasted chestnuts (maroni).
What about drinks? Christmas markets are well known for their tasty (both alcoholic and non-alcoholic) libations. Hot mulled wine (glühwein) is by far the most popular drink at Christmas markets. Made of red wine, sugar, and cinnamon it’s the perfect thing to warm up with. There’s also hot mulled cider (glühmost) and non-alcoholic punch (kinderpunsch). While glühwein is the most popular option, you MUST try the Christmas Punch (weihnachtspunsch). Christmas punch is made of a steaming pot of tea, spices, sugar and spirits (typically brandy or rum). When purchasing a Christmas punch, you may have a bit of sticker shock. But don’t worry, it’s for good reason! Your purchase also includes a deposit on the mug it’s served in. Each market has its own mug design that changes yearly. If you return your mug after finishing you’ll receive your deposit back. It’s very common to keep a mug or two as a unique souvenir, but obviously your deposit is forfeited.
During our all to brief visit to Vienna, we were able to visit 4 Christmas markets. We loved each Christmas market for different reasons and wish we could’ve spent more time exploring each market and visited even more!
Fairly central and situated on Am Hof square, it is surrounded by historical buildings. This historical square was where the first duke of Austria, Henry II, established his court. Since 1145, Vienna has remained the capital of the country. You’ll also find nearby the Palais Collalto , where Mozart first performed and Kirche Am Hof, a church from 1386-1403, with the main façade dating to 1662.
Am Hof Advent Market is known for featuring independent artists, and locally produced items. If you’re looking for unique, handmade gifts; this is where you want to be! Here is where we had our first taste of traditional glühwein! We even took a shot with a bartender after buying some Christmas punch.
Located in the area surrounding St. Stephen’s Cathedral, this Christmas market offers a wide variety of merchandise for purchase. In addition, you’ll find horse drawn carriages at one end of the market which adds to the ambiance. But, by far the largest draw is seeing a Christmas market with all the splendor of the cathedral lit up in Christmas colors as a backdrop.
After getting your fill at Stephansplatz, take a wander down Graben street and admire the twinkle of the Christmas lights display. You’ll definitely be in the Christmas spirit after a visit here!
This Christmas market is the most elegant of the markets we visited. With the palace as a backdrop, it’s no wonder. There is a large focus on arts and crafts at this market. You won’t find plastic here, but high quality handiworks from a variety of workshops.
In addition, festive concerts take place in the square almost daily during the season. Sadly, we didn’t have the time to sit and enjoy while we were there. It also is the only one on this list open through the New Year!
The largest Christmas market in Austria and one of the largest in the world, the town hall (Rathaus) was by far our favorite. The best time to visit this market is at night, believe me you won’t be disappointed. The market is all lit up with Christmas lights and with the backdrop of the town hall lit behind is definitely a sight. Towering above all, with over 2000 LED lights, is the Rathaus Christmas tree which is gifted from a different Austrian province every year.
But don’t limit yourself to the market itself! Want to get away from the crowds? The town hall park (rathausplatz), has a ferris wheel, carousel, and seasonal decorations you can walk through for a little romance. You’ll also stumble across the “Tree of Hearts” (Herzchenbaum), an infamous tree decorated with illuminated hearts.
But the best thing at rathausplatz? The ice skating rink. Illuminated ice skating covering 3000 square meters is available with rental skates. But, this is different from any ice skating we’ve done in the past. You won’t be skating on a rink, in a big circle. No, you’ll be skating on narrow “trails” woven throughout the park!
Albertina Museum
An art museum housed in a palace, you can’t really ask for better! One of the world’s great art museums, you’ll find the permanent collection includes Picasso, Cézanne, Monet, Degas, Chagall and many others. It also holds the largest and most important Graphic Arts collection in the World.
Albertina was also the residence of many Habsburg dukes and duchesses. There are 20 staterooms restored and decorated to reflect the opulence of the 19th century.
A second museum called the “Albertina Modern” in Karlsplatz square opened in 2020. This museum focuses more on modern art. The building itself dates back to 1868 as a home and exhibition venue to the Association of Austrian Artists. It was not open when we visited, but with Andy Warhol and Damien Hirst listed as part of their collection, I would imagine it’s worth a visit.
Viennese Cafés
If you don’t know, Viennese coffee culture is known the world over. So much so that UNESCO placed it on the list of intangible cultural heritage for Austria. Vienna has been a beacon for artists throughout history. A place where people, for the price of a cup of coffee, can meet to discuss current events, write or draw the next masterpiece, or just sit and think. Dating back to 1683, Viennese coffee house culture is described as a place, “in which time and space are consumed, but only the coffee is listed on the bill”.
It’s very normal for a customer to sit at a table for hours with a single cup of coffee. Viewed historically, almost as an extension of your own living room. People came to relax, unwind, and read a newspaper for as long as you like!
Traditionally, Viennese coffee houses have a very distinct look. Tabletops are marble with either wrought iron, brass, or wooden stands. The chairs are in the Thonet, open backed style. With tall ceilings, the walls are typically adored with artwork.
This café was built in 1880 and was originally called Café Ronacher. Later that same year Mr. Sperl took over and renamed it Café Sperl. Frequented by many notable names throughout its history, this café takes me back in time to the bejeweled Edwardian era. You’ll find yourself surrounded by dark woods, upholstered booths, glass and mirrors. It’s not hard to imagine a man wearing a top hat with a cane walking in at any time.
They offer many different coffee options as well as pastries. There’s also heartier options like eggs, french toast, sandwiches, and pasta. You can play billiards on one of their tables or read from a choice of daily, weekly, and monthly newspapers. Sundays after 3:30pm, your visit will be enhanced by the sounds of the piano.
This may be the most famous Viennese coffeehouse and for good reason. It first opened in 1876, in the bank and stock exchange building. Now the building is called Palais Ferstel, but Café Central remains. Notable figures Sigmund Freud, Leon Trotsky, Vladimir Lenin, Felix Salten, and many others frequented this memorable café.
For a time, this café was also known as the “university of chess” as many chess players and masters used the first floor for their games.
Marked by its place in literary history, this café still remains as a popular attraction. Reservations are recommended. But you can always take a chance on walking in! The apfelstrudel here was suuuper yummy! Whether you’re visiting for a hearty breakfast, an on the go lunch, one of their delectable pastries, or just a simple Viennese coffee, you will not regret it!
Therme Wien
Broken up into zones, Therme WIen is a bit overwhelming at first glance. But, it is definitely worth it after spending days exploring new cities. We bought one of their offers, the “After Work Ticket”.
After all of our exploration, our dogs were barking. A quick Google search revealed that a quick 15min Subway ride away is Therme Wien. Fed by a natural thermal spring, this spa covers 75,000 square meters. Therme Wien consists of 3 areas, the Spa, Massage & Treatment, and Fitness. We can’t speak to the fitness and treatment areas as we only spent time in the spa. But it seems like you could spend days here for a fully transformative experience.
At €28.50 per person, it includes a visit from 6pm to 10pm and a beach bag with bathrobe, towel, shampoo and body soap. We had access to the Spa Zone, Tranquility Stone, and Relax Lounge. The water temperatures vary in temp from 28°C/82.4°F to 36°C/96.8°F. The Grotto Pools in the Tranquility Stone were our favorite. The waterfall and dimmed lighting provides the perfect place to relax and decompress.
After Vienna we made our way to Budapest, Hungary via you guessed it train. This time we rode with OBB. Taking approximately 2.5 hours, we encountered no issues en route to Budapest.
With all that we saw, we still barely scratched the surface of wht Vienna and Austria have to offer! It is definitely worth a second visit! Coming next is the last stop on our European tour, BUDAPEST, HUNGARY!
3 Responses
Love the amazing photos especially the Christmas Village 🥰 ❤️ 💃🏻🙏 nice addition to my long bucket list 😁
Wow, now I need to go to Vienna!! Terrific writing and beautiful photography. Thanks for taking me away from my home in Canada for a little while.
Cheers…
Absolutely! Thanks for the compliments and we’re glad to add more exploration to your list!!